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"we don't need no stinkin' paint!"
Date: 05/17/2006
Views: 3723
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we all know what this is!
Your basic B size enclosure complete with rough edges and surface inperfections galore.
Date: 05/15/2006
Views: 5350
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Surface preperation is the key to a good etch.
WET-sand with a wooden block to flatten out the top surface. It's most important to sand out ALL the imperfections in the casting including whatever "pits" and dimples are in the top. What you do here determines the outcome!
Date: 05/15/2006
Views: 5866
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Print and choose your design!
Here's my design for Jack Orman's Mosfet Boost. The rough draft.
Date: 05/15/2006
Views: 7308
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Test fit...
This is just to see if the pattern will fit properly to the top of the enclosure.
Date: 05/16/2006
Views: 6299
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What are the Cut-outs for?
Air bubbles trapped under the transfer will cause problems, the cutouts give the air a place to go without effecting the lettering. Read On!!
Date: 05/16/2006
Views: 7181
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Applying the mask........
Apply a light coat of spraypaint to the sides.....This is going to be the "mask" on the sides so good coverage is important!
Date: 05/16/2006
Views: 6470
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What type of paint should be used?
I use the cheapest Flat Black I can get my hands on. Apply a light coat but be sure coverage is good. The spraypaint will protect the sides from the etchant and will show "imperfections" when sanded off of the top... Stay with me here!
Date: 05/16/2006
Views: 5855
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Speed Drying!
This is not neccessary but, I hate waiting so I use a heatgun to speed up the dry time. Another reason for FLAT Black... it dries FAST!
Date: 05/16/2006
Views: 5717
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More Sanding........
Using 600 grit paper will really smooth out the surface. The flat black paint will expose the sanding marks left from the 220 and 400 paper. Make sure any marks are gone and the surface is flat and uniform.
Date: 05/17/2006
Views: 6096
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Making the Transfer-
If you've etched circuit boards, you know how to do this! Note that the image is copied onto the PNP in reverse. Remember the "cut-outs" where there is no black on the PNP, these will be Quite helpful in the near future.
Date: 05/17/2006
Views: 6488
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Preparing the Transfer
Now, cut out the image. I trim right up to the outside line of my transfer as this will make it much easier to line up the transfer on the enclosure.
Date: 05/17/2006
Views: 5699
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Keep it Clean!!
This is obvious but, it is VERY important for the top to be as clean as possible. Do not touch this area once it is cleaned. Any oil or dirt on your hands will have an ill-effect if it ends up on the surface of the enclosure.
Date: 05/17/2006
Views: 5529
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Static Cling
If you have used PNP before, you know how it can "cling" because of static electricity.....this is an advantage here as it will stick to the enclosure quite well and makes alignment of the transfer that much easier.
Date: 05/17/2006
Views: 5721
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The Heat
Here you can see that the transfer is aligned and ready for the Iron.I use a "sunbeam" iron "acquired" from the wife... she bought a new one because I always had hers in my shop!
Date: 05/17/2006
Views: 5610
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The Ironing process
I rest the iron on top for about 30 seconds. This gives the transfer enough time to set up. Then, gently move the iron around and pay attention to the corners and, try to push any air bubbles into the "cut-out" areas of the transfer.
Date: 05/17/2006
Views: 5647
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Rinse
After about 2-3 minutes time, rinse the enclosure under cold water. Be sure to use pliers to pick it up with because aluminum gets HOT real fast...And it will be quite hot I assure you!
Date: 05/17/2006
Views: 5649
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Remove the Transfer
After the rinse, dry with a towel and gently peel up the transfer.
Date: 05/17/2006
Views: 6055
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Masking part II
The heat part is complete. Now it's time to mask off the cut-out areas that absorbed the air bubbles while ironing.....
Date: 05/17/2006
Views: 6997
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Break out the Brush
There will probably be a small seam on the sides of the enclosure where the flat black sides meet the PNP top. I brush over this seam to cover any exposed aluminum. Then, mask over the cut-out areas with flat black too.
Date: 05/17/2006
Views: 7373
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Preparing the Bath
Quite simple, a clear tray (must be plastic!) and Ferric Chloride. Make sure all paint is completely dry, heat gun it again if desired. NOTE: Sharpie pens will work but, not as well as a paint mask on aluminum!!
Date: 05/17/2006
Views: 6605
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How much etchant to use?
This is all the etchant you'll need to do one standard etch. A reverse etch may require and etchant change. I don't dilute it, I don't dilute it, I take my etchant straight up!
Date: 05/17/2006
Views: 6634
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Here We Go!!
This is the first dip.Not much happens at first but, after about 30 seconds or so, bubbles start to form and it begins to sound like a glass of Alka-Seltzer!
Date: 05/17/2006
Views: 6563
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Keep an eye on things.........
I remove the enclosure about every 20 seconds or so to check progress....lift it up a little, swish the etchant around and place it back in again. By this time the enclosure may feel a bit "warm" which is OK, DON'T let it get HOT!!!
Date: 05/17/2006
Views: 7731
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Dipping Continued...........
After about 2-3 minutes of the previous step, I pull out the enclosure again, check progress on it and give it a rinse in cold water. The rinse stops the process, cools down the enclosure and allows you to check the progress of the etch more clearly.
Date: 05/17/2006
Views: 7211
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The Results
This is when all the prep work starts to really pay off! Let the cold water run over the top for about 1-2 minutes to flush the etched areas. If you wish you can even put some Baking Soda onto the surface to help neutralize the acid.
Date: 05/17/2006
Views: 6932
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Remove the mask
After the final rinse, wet-sand the top mask off with 600 grit sandpaper. The mask will sand off rather easily and the etched pattern will remain untouched because it is now BELOW the surface.
Date: 05/17/2006
Views: 7098
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Looking Good!
Here it is.Top mask completely sanded, the sides need to be done too. Next, we'll clean up the lettering and design a bit!
Date: 05/17/2006
Views: 7695
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Detailing
After the initial sanding of the top mask, scrub out all of the etched portion with an OLD tooth brush. This black "gook" left behind is corroded aluminum and it is wise to scrub it out before shooting any paint onto the lettering.
Date: 05/18/2006
Views: 7051
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Detailed
Although difficult to tell from the photo, the lettering and border stripe are much cleaner than before. Ready for paint........
Date: 05/18/2006
Views: 7429
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Painting the Etch
Spray a couple of light coats of paint to the top. Any color could be used really but, lately I've been doing the "brushed aluminum" look with black lettering. Sometimes it's best to keep it simple.
Date: 05/18/2006
Views: 7142
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Final Sanding
Wet sand the top.Because the top was sanded down to a completely flat and even surface, it is possible to wetsand the top with a block without the worry of harming the etched lettering. The paint in the lettering stays behind, the rest goes down the drain
Date: 05/18/2006
Views: 6435
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Almost done.....
Here's a good view.My Mosfet Boost is really starting to take shape now. All that preperation is paying off! Note the Mosfet transistor symbol!
Date: 05/18/2006
Views: 6623
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Another view
Just another view.Next, just a bit more finish-sanding.
Date: 05/18/2006
Views: 6099
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Painting Completed
I chose to have this one resemble my AD3208 a bit, so the sides are sprayed with two coats of semi-gloss black and then, heat-gunned. After the paint dried, I drilled the enclosure.
Date: 05/21/2006
Views: 6114
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Putting it together
After drilling, I test fit the hardware in the enclosure. While everything was in there, I glued the standoffs in as well using using JB Weld. Now, it sits overnight for the Paint and JB Weld to set up.
Date: 05/21/2006
Views: 5931
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Final Sanding
Next, here is the final wet-sanding for this one, Swirl-Sanding with 600 grit will provide a nice "brushed" looking finish on the top.
Date: 05/21/2006
Views: 6029
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Fully Assembled
Here's the unit.All hardware is mounted, wiring is complete, ready for a test drive.........
Date: 05/21/2006
Views: 6606
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Finished!
Here is the finished product.Fired up the first time too with NO de-bugging neccessary. I like when that happens! The knob is a Davies purchased at the local hardware store.
Date: 05/22/2006
Views: 6439
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Just another view.
Hard to beleive this is the end result when seeing the enclosure bathed in yellow Ferric Chloride!
Date: 05/22/2006
Views: 5856
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One more pic of the Mosfet Boost.
This is a fantastic sounding circuit especially with my Tele....Very clean and quite loud with just a touch of shimmer on the very top end of the tonal spectrum. If you don't have this booster yet, I highly suggest giving it a try!
Date: 05/22/2006
Views: 6837
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Spent Etchant
One Last Thing....This is spent Ferric Chloride.Please be courteous to the environment and dispose of in a responsible manner. Thank You.
Date: 10/15/2006
Views: 3751
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